For at least the past couple of years, we have been struggling with a shortage of capers from our long-standing Sardinian supplier, so we set out to find a new source. Or rather, we decided to give a chance to a producer we had known for some time but had never properly assessed until the latest edition of Taste fair in Florence: the Pantelleria-based company Kazzen.

The supplier we are introducing to you for the first time in this magazine is called Kazzen and operates on the island of Pantelleria, the ‘daughter of the wind’, as the name’s Arabic origins suggest. The company’s name, however, comes from a historic district on the island, where the business is based.

THE COMPANY

At the helm are Marilena and Alessandro since 2004, when they have discovered the treasures and opportunities hidden behind the cultivation of capers and Zibibbo grapes. Since then, they have devoted themselves to promote the island’s extraordinary raw ingredients and the related manufactured products: traditional local recipes and only extra virgin olive oil and salt, with absolutely no chemical preservatives.
Their range is wide – quite mind-boggling – so we’ll be introducing it to you step by step as our collaboration progresses. We simply had to start with capers, undoubtedly one of the island’s symbols, and two other products linked to the same plant: the leaves and the caper berries, locally known as cucunci. Even before Taste, we had them in our sights (commercially speaking, of course!) and in Florence we found the quality we were looking for, which was confirmed by a subsequent sampling. 

But we also found the right level of professionalism and attention to detail, which allowed us to get the collaboration off to a quick start. Pantelleria is an island that lies, on average and weather permitting, a six-hour boat ride from Sicily, so we inevitably had to (and will have to) deal with logistics that must take into account variable and difficult-to-predict delivery times. So, to avoid any misunderstandings… we had to get a head start!

THE CULTIVATION OF PANTELLERIA CAPERS

Caper cultivation on Pantelleria, favoured by the volcanic soil and warm climate, has a long tradition, as evidenced by the presence of centuries-old crops known since Roman times.

Once cultivation begins, the capers receive the same care reserved for vines: the soil is worked and fertilized in winter, and the plants are pruned. The harvest takes place at dawn, from mid-May to the end of September. Then, at the end of the day, the buds are placed in special vats to slowly ripen in brine, using methods passed down from father to son. 

The key is sea salt, which releases their characteristic fragrance. We present two varieties: the Pantelleria Capers IGP preserved in salt and in a single format, and Capers in sea salt in two different pack sizes.

PANTELLERIA CAPERS IGP

The caper is small, round and globular in shape, ranging in colour from dark green to mustard yellow. The flavour is aromatic and with vegetable aroma, with a pronounced but not overpowering iodised saltiness. They are preserved exclusively in sea salt, with a salt content not exceeding 25%.

This caper differs from others not only in its origins but also in the intensity of its flavour. Available in 150g jars. Before use, we recommend rinsing the capers under running water for a few minutes. Once opened, store in the fridge.

CAPERS IN SEA SALT

This version does not carry the protected designation of origin, but is still produced on the island. These capers are always preserved in a 25% salt solution; they are small to medium in size and retain a dark green colour. The flavour is similar to that of the previous variety, although the intensity is moderate. Ideal for use in cooking, whether in a puttanesca sauce (with peeled tomatoes, black olives, capers, anchovies, garlic and chilli), on a pizza or in a tuna sauce. Available in two sizes: a 60 g format ideal for retail and a 1.2 kg pack for catering, both in glass jars.

CAPERS LEAVES IN EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

The leaves of the caper plant are harvested by hand, usually in late summer, when they are at their firmest and most succulent. They are first placed in brine and then preserved either in salt or in extra virgin olive oil. We have chosen the extra virgin olive oil version, available exclusively in a 500 g jar. The flavour is intense, full of savoury depth and aromatic vegetable notes. Their use in the kitchen is versatile: they can serve merely as a decorative element, though that would be a waste, or take centre stage when paired with fresh cheeses, fish tartare, medium-sized fish baked in the oven, and fish in general. 

CAPER BERRIES

The most eagerly awaited product of this selection. Whilst the caper is the bud of the plant, cucunci are the ‘fully grown’ capers – the berries, in fact. Hand-picked with their stems intact, they are oval in shape and have a firm, crunchy texture. Always preserved in extra virgin olive oil after a period in brine, they are wonderful additions to dishes or enjoyed on their own as an aperitif. Available in two jar sizes: 175 g for retail and 500 g for catering.

Why not give these products a try in your bar or shop? If you like them as much as we think you will, there’ll be more new products to come after the summer!